At current, many players blow off the VSR10 as a simple kiddie-springer, while others consider it to be the next best thing to an APS2. My personal thoughts on the VRS10 leans more toward the latter provided that a few simple modifications are done.
Real-shock & Pro-sniper
There are two types of VSR10’s, one being called the “pro sniper” and the other the “real shock” version. Aside from the faux plastic wood furniture and the “recoil” effect, the “real shock” VSR10 is basically no different from the Pro sniper version except for the piston itself.
Real shock version
As you can see, the real shock piston is simply the pro sniper piston with the air brake removed and 2 zinc plates attached around the unit to provide a heavier stroke. Basically, the amount of recoil the real shock will have is solely dependent on how strong your spring is.
The air brake system on the Pro sniper version is designed to dampen the strike of the piston onto the cylinder head. The downside to this is that it results in a slightly lower velocity compared to the real shock version, but the benefit is that the muzzle report makes little to no noise at all.
Aftermarkets parts
A well known aftermarket manufacturer to look out for in the near future is Laylax; at current they have already released the cylinder head and spring guide as well as a Prometheus inner barrel for the VSR10. There are very good indications of other aftermarket parts in the works for the VSR10 series as well, so you may want to hold off a bit longer on upgrading the VSR10 until a wider assortment of parts become more readily available.
But for you impatient types, there are a few things you can do with minimal parts on hand that can actually push the performance level as high as most of the heavily upgraded bolt action rifles out there today.
Since I didn’t bother with a step by step analysis of the VSR10, you might want to take a quick look there first to give you a more detailed look into of what to expect with gutting open your gun.
Upgrading the spring
The VSR10 uses 7mm springs, at least for now until aftermarket spring guides as well as a new piston are made available in larger sizes (9mm).
It is my opinion that the safest spring to use for now is the KM 1.6J spring for the APS2. Higher than the 1.6J tension springs will quickly accelerate wear & tear of the piston lip, the primary sear, and may even damage the flimsy plastic spring guide as well.
Until more aftermarket parts become more accessible, I would suggest on holding off on upgrading the gun to higher power.
Air compression
The OEM cylinder assembly allows for quite a bit of air loss due to poor compression. My remedy for this was simply to just use a larger O-ring around the piston.
The O-ring pictured on the right is the one originally used on the OEM piston, and the one on the left was taken from an AEG piston head.
The fit may seem a bit too loose when you initially put it on, but once inside the cylinder, you will notice that it seats very securely and makes a substantial difference in keeping an air-tight seal.
Barrel
The OEM inner barrel is the same quality as the ones you find in springer pistols which is basically cheap aluminium tubing. However, you may not find it absolutely necessary to go with an aftermarket inner barrel since the stock barrel setup is surprisingly consistent and accurate.
But for those of you interested, at current you have a choice between the Head 1950/KM 6.04mm inner barrel or the Prometheus 6.03mm inner barrel. I personally went with the KM barrel only because it was already available prior to the release of the Prometheus barrel.
Disassembling the hop-up chamber is a breeze, just unscrew the 4 screws as shown 
and the rest is pretty self explanatory. The design is very simple so you won’t have to worry about re-assembling anything complicated. Swapping out the inner barrel shouldn’t take you any longer than 5-8 minutes.
The stock inner barrel pictured on left, Head 1950/KM 6.04mm inner barrel to the right.
Cylinder head
With addition of FIRST spring guide w/ bearing, FIRST Cylinder head, 1.9j spring and the air brake feature removed, The VSR10 hits a velocity of 510 FPS with .20g bb's while maintaining an impressive shot grouping. Even with such minimal work done, the gun in this configuration is now definitely in the same performance ballpark as many of the high-end APS2 rifles at a fraction of the price.
I don’t intend on upgrading any further until noticeable wear & tear on the remaining OEM parts become noticeable, so another update will be posted if any new changes are made.
The end piece where the hop-up bucking slides onto also has a very slight change; As you can see in the first picture to the left, the top end bridge the arrow is pointing to is not present on the Pro Sniper and Real Shock inner barrel.
This doesn’t mean you can’t use an aftermarket inner barrel for the original VSR-10’s in the G-spec; I’ve already installed my old inner barrel from the Pro Sniper into the G-spec without any issues with the fit inside the chamber.
The "new" hop-up is only the plunger itself. While the original VSR's had plungers like the ones used for AEG's, the G-spec has plastic contact points fixed only on each end rather than using the separate rubber plunger that runs flat. The design is somewhat like the newer version Marui revolvers where the hop-up notch has a "v" cut, except of course it’s the plunger on the G-spec that is forked, not the bucking itself.
It also seems the detents seem closer together than the original, but you can always shorten the clicks on the original by replacing the hop-plunger with a smaller diameter insulation tube.
Cocking handle
The new cocking handle is a very nice addition in my opinion. The concept is the same as the First Factory bolt handle for the APS2 series in that its much easier to draw back the bolt.
Simply put, the handle pitches up only at 60 degrees as opposed the original 90, which basically means your optics can’t hinder the way of a proper cycling motion.
Oh, and also included is a rubber sleeve/cap that can be put around the end portion of the cylinder assembly.
The Bull barrel design is nice, but the outer threading does not take standard 14mm attachments. Thus, you are currently limited to using the included “G-spec” suppressor until alternative attachments are made available.
As for using the G-Spec with bull barrel alone, other than the advantage of increased manoeuvrability, the muzzle report will have a sharper pitch, and in my opinion, looks a bit too short. For those picky on detail, the empty threads inside the outer barrel will easily be seen.
Therefore, I just went ahead and installed a full length KM 6.04mm inner barrel for the original VSR-10 rifles which will extend roughly about 12 cm through the outer barrel. Since the suppressor is almost 20cm long, that still leaves ample room left over to still be a functional silencer.
The addition of the Laylax PSS10 Teflon cylinder was added not so much out of necessity, but more to just finish off upgrading what was left available for the VSR10 series.
The Teflon coated cylinder does not improve the function and durability over the OEM cylinder by a large margin simply due to the fact that the original cylinder is very well made to begin with. However, for those of you who may have damaged the original cylinder with careless removal of the cylinder stop pin, or just don’t want to deal with any of the factory parts, the Laylax cylinder for the VSR10 series is a recommended buy.
The handle boss is well reinforced, and is not crafted out of zinc like the original. There is also a locking detent for the bolt handle, unlike the Firefly cylinder which does not have this present. Not having the detent will result in the cocking handle to rotate off center, and as a result, will eventually loosen itself from the cylinder.
The Teflon coating does help a bit to smoothen the bolt cycle, so it can be kept dry on the outside. The inner portion can also be kept dry, save for a slight application of 20-30 weight silicone oil on the piston O-ring.
Try not to apply too much as excess lubricant will eventually make its way through the cylinder head onto the chamber, hop bucking and inner barrel.
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